Funnily enough, I just use my old Stadia controller. Works perfectly with wired or wireless (in order to utilize Bluetooth, you need to use Google’s tool to “unlock” the Bluetooth mode on it - you only need to do this once), and I can’t say I’ve ever had a game not work with it. I think it just emulates Xinput/an Xbox controller under the hood?
Before that however, I just used an Xbox One controller (particularly, the “Xbox One S” ones that have native Bluetooth support, but my non-S one worked fine over both wired and with the addon dongle that you can purchase) which also always worked out for me. I think I still prefer the Stadia controller for how it feels in the hand, and the fact that it uses USB-C however.
At some point I would like to pickup a GuliKit KK3 Max controller since it seems quite intriguing, however I can’t really justify the price point when my Stadia controller works just fine for me.
I use the Steam controller, (obviously not helpful since they don’t make it anymore) most of the time.
I also have the remake of the old Xbox “duke” from a few years back. The largeness of it in my smaller hands always felt surprisingly comfortable. It’s wired and recognised as generic xbox one controller - BUT only when running steam. If steam isn’t open, then the controller continuously turns off and back on every 20 seconds.
I have a few DS4 controllers sitting here that still work. Eh. Not much use but they work fairly well. I don’t really like the PlayStation control design.
I have never tried a Switch / Switch-compatible controller on yet. My partner has a couple for… the Switch! But I’m hoping they do well because I just bought my daughter a Sonic-themed, Gamecube-style wired controller for her upcoming birthday (she obsessed with Sonic and saying she wants to play a game one day instead of just watching). It would be good if she can just take it between playing Switch with her mum or PC with me.
Final comments -it’s wired or replaceable batteries for me. So many dead DS3 and DS4 controllers sitting around from years back that won’t charge, or last about 15 minutes. But wires never get in the way anyway, and I always have eneloop AAs ready to go.
EmuDeck uses EmulationStation, in which I’ve seen a lot of controller-related problems. Controllers working in the menu but not in the emulators. Controllers working in the emulators but not in the menus.
For a dedicated emulation machine, I’ll once again shill for Lakka, that boots LibreELEC directly into RetroArch without EmulationStation, and has bootable installers for multiple configurations of x86_64 machines and images for loads of single-board computers.
I haven’t had any problems here. From what I can tell, it just hands all the input and display off to your configured emulator of choice once you make the selection, so once you boot the game, it’s however you’ve got that emulator configured.
Maybe they’ve finally fixed those problems. In Lakka, I set my controller up once (for each unique controller) in RetroArch frontend, and then it works in any emulator core. I don’t think it’s normal to have to set up the controller in each core (but you can, if you want or need to!)
I had a very similar issue with Heroic Games Launcher (streaming to steam link, steam shortcut added, game thought I was using mouse and keyboard instead of controller). I fixed it by enabling “minimize heroic on game launch” in Heroic’s options. Maybe see if something similar exists for Lutris
It’s definitely something like this - from what I can tell the controller hasn’t moved “focus” to the game as I can still hear the Steam Big Picture menu making noise etc.
Does the game support the controller? When you’re running the game via Steam, it uses its controller service(?). When you are running the game somewhat directly this part will not be running. So if the game does not support your controller directly, you might need to find a way how to make it recognize it
It works when I launch through Lutris, but yea - using the Steam shortcut it doesn’t work. I’m sure it all used to work on my old system, but not sure if I’ve tried it since moving to Wayland
uhm. Ok, let’s get back one step. What is Steam shortcut?
It works when I launch through Lutris, but yea - using the Steam shortcut it doesn’t work
Does “steam shortcut” mean that you are running lutris from steam? In such case maybe it’s the other way round than what I proposed earlier - steam controller thingy grabs the controller and because of that it doesn’t go straight to the game?
Its an option in Lutris to automatically create a shortcut in your Steam game library for a “Non-Steam game”. But yes, I think you’re right - that’s probably what is happening
Then, I think, go into Steam, open the page of the game in library and in the options somewhere on the right, just below the image (?), try to disable something like Steam controller input for this game
That kind of seems like that is exactly what these are. The specs are still sort of terrible, though, but pricing isn’t too far off for what is advertised in them.
The more expensive one uses a mobile GPU. Using a desktop GPU would make for a much more powerful machine. And as far as the cheaper model is concerned, you could get a much more powerful off the shelf device for that money. So you’re basically just paying for the snazzy case. Which is fine of course, but I think they could have done better.
I was excited for a sec then saw it requires steam link. The only idea I had for a remote steam setup involved a ps vita, which can only do it through moonlight/sunshine. Unfortunately that requires having a display plugged in. I tried patching drivers and all sorts of other crap and none of it did anything at all. Dummy HDMI plug would be an option but if I had to spend money I’d rather just get a steam deck.
While this solution may work for phones or tablets or some such, you either have to lug around a controller or deal with touch controls. Not to mention having to either fork out for a 300mbps upload and download internet connections at both ends or taking a pill that makes you not see JPEG compression.
But also, gaming through a deep fried JPEG is not anywhere near as good as natively on the Deck’s gorgeous OLED display, free of worries about input lag, latency and other streaming cancer.
What do you mean requiring a monitor / display plugged in? I have some connected, but they are all powered off.
Perhaps one of them does that thing where it does not disconnect from the system?
In regards to bandwidth, If you are emulating a PS Vita, no need to stream 1080p content? You can setup the script to limit the UI resolution to 480p! Perhaps that may help?
For me, this works, and is quite fun to use! I am sad that it does not seem to work for you?
monitor / display plugged in? I have some connected, but they are all powered off.
Sunshine requires X to be running, which requires some sort of hardware display connected. Either a dummy HDMI plug, or a real HDMI display. My Linux server is completely headless, tucked away in a wardrobe, I have no spare monitors to plug into it and it wouldn’t be all that useful to just have a functioning monitor hanging out on top of it just for it to never be used.
If this is wrong, please feel free to correct me, I’m happy to try again but the last time I tried sunshine would not stream due to the fact there was no monitor and no virtual monitor solutions would work.
Well actually, there is one virtual display solution that worked - Chrome Remote Desktop, but it’s janky to keep that connection open while using sunshine, and because of audio routing it meant the sound was in chrome remote desktop, not streamed through sunshine, and controls wouldn’t work.
If you are emulating a PS Vita, no need to stream 1080p content?
Wat.
I’m not emulating a PS Vita, I am streaming PC games to my actual real OLED OG PS Vita.
This is why the OP solution of using Steam Link which is miles better than Jank-shine would not work for me, because the Vita does not have Steam Link.
If this is wrong, please feel free to correct me, I’m happy to try again but the last time I tried sunshine would not stream due to the fact there was no monitor and no virtual monitor solutions would work.
Just confirmed on call with my sibling, my desktop had 0 monitors plugged in, and this method works for me. Maybe try it out and see?
I’m not emulating a PS Vita, I am streaming PC games to my actual real OLED OG PS Vita.
Oo, That sounds awesome! How long have you been doing that?
What is PortProton doing that could increase performance? At the end of the day, won’t this tool just set up a wineprefix for your game and then launch it using wine/proton, just like other tools of this nature?
I set the filter in that link to 300mm, which is a bit less than 12". If you actually have 310mm to work with, it would show more options including some from PowerColor, who made the card I’m using and am happy with.
I suggest checking each model’s power jack positions as well. You don’t want to buy a card that barely fits only to find that there’s no room left for the power cables.
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