Why not get a separate standing microphone like a Blue Yeti or snowball and have much better audio quality with no wires on your headphones and you are free to choose whatever headphone that you like?
Standing mic plus a Bose quiet comfort is top tier wireless setup. Or you can even use earbuds at that point.
That’s what I did for my wife and no complaints yet.
A good mic is essentially “buy it for life,” whereas wireless headphones are “consumable.” It’s much better to not have to find a good mic and good audio at the same time, just get a good mic and then feel free to experiment with headphones.
Someone also noted that if the game supports the controller, you can manually disable steam input for that game. Apparently the root cause is game scope doesn’t play nicely with Wayland.
If you look into PlayStation from a software angle, it makes perfect sense. Sony has always been pretty pro-unix.
They had an official Linux kit for the PS2 (came with a custom Linux distro on a CD, a HDD, and a KB+M).
OtherOS was also a selling point on the PS3, and was only ditched when they realized it opened the door to major security risks.
Further, CellOS, the operating system for the PS3, and OrbisOS, which is the base operating system for the PS4 and PS5, are all based on FreeBSD.
So, a lot of their hardware is designed around Unix systems already. I know all their controllers since the Dualshock 3 are natively supported by the Linux kernel (no dongles or drivers needed in theory).
I was able to acquire a Jabra Evolve2 85 through my last employer and it’s absolute shit. The sound quality drops to telephone/ AM radio quality when the microphone turns on. Otherwise it’s okay.
You might want to consider VoIP headsets, too. They often have better sound and build quality than many “gaming headsets”.
As for compatibility, I would expect any headset to work as long as it connects as a USB audio device or with analog plugs. Just make sure that any nonstandard controls are on the device itself instead of requiring special software.
I won’t recommend a particular model, but I will say that my experience with “touchpad control” based headsets, as compared to ones with mechanical buttons and switches, has not been very good. Controls are unreliable and too prone to being bumped. Unfortunately, a number of high-end headset makers seem to like making these
I’ve watch a few videos that compare a few headsets and for the “lower” audio and mic quality ones, they usually say that with their tweaking software you can make it a bit better. I was wondering about it since usually those type of programs are made for Windows only plus I don’t really think I want something that I must use software to make better. Long story short, thanks for the heads up!!
If you’re playing the games in Steam, using Steam Input, there’s an option to disable it.
Steam->Settings->Controller->Game rumble
A number of games will also have an option to do so.
EDIT: If you are certain that you don’t ever want rumble, you could probably open up the controller and just disconnect one of the wires running to each motor. I think that the XBox controllers use security bits, though. I had to open one a while back.
A TR8 Torx Security screwdriver can remove the fasteners securing Xbox 360 controllers and standard Xbox One and Xbox Series X|S controllers.
Note that the security Torx bits aren’t regular Torx bits, so if you do want to do that, be sure to get the security bit.
Could even just remove the motors from the controller, make it a bit lighter.
EDIT2: I think that the controller uses the xpad driver (if it does, it should be loaded and visible when you run lsmod and have the game controller active). Unfortunately, that doesn’t seem to have an option to disable force feedback at the driver level:
<span style="color:#323232;">$ modinfo -p xpad
</span><span style="color:#323232;">dpad_to_buttons:Map D-PAD to buttons rather than axes for unknown pads (bool)
</span><span style="color:#323232;">triggers_to_buttons:Map triggers to buttons rather than axes for unknown pads (bool)
</span><span style="color:#323232;">sticks_to_null:Do not map sticks at all for unknown pads (bool)
</span><span style="color:#323232;">auto_poweroff:Power off wireless controllers on suspend (bool)
</span><span style="color:#323232;">$
</span>
There are some software packages that let you create “virtual” controllers that take input from another controller. That adds more moving parts, but if none of the above options work for you, you could look into that.
Disabling it in steam input doesn’t disable it in Lutris. I have already thought about disconnecting the motors as an alternative method after making sure there’s nothing in the software that can do that, as in Windows.
Although the ‘Xbox Accessories’ tool on Windows 10 didn’t give the option to update the firmware on these two generic controllers (20d6-2005 and 24c6-581a) it did enable the rumble to be turned off (in the Configure… menu).
I’m not sure exactly what I did, but I first attached a Microsoft-brand controller (045e-0b12) which had the rumble feature ticked. I then connected the other two controllers and their rumble feature was unticked too - without me having to untick it. When I moved all 3 controllers back to Linux none of them rumble anymore. And they are all working as expected and no longer affected by this problem.
Not sure if that’s the same controller as yours, but also might be worth looking at.
It did let me disable it on the Xbox Accessories app back on Windows. Then it stopped working, and I couldn’t open it again because it thought I had an old version of Windows for some reason. Now on Linux, it is still working aggressively to the point that the controller sometimes disconnects or falls off my hand.
As a person who has opened up a few xbox controllers to clean them up ‘to the max’, it’s probably beginner level DIY to open it up and disconnect the rumble motors. I think it was even broken in one or two we had ( OG xbox and wired 360 versions), and the system doesn’t prompt you to do something about or, or refuse service (can you imagine? that would suck). Still, I’d try to disconnect it non-destructively first
Wow. I did not know about the Torx security thing. It looks like the ifixit kits come with a torx security instead of a regular torx, so I never even noticed when I took my controller apart to replace a shoulder button. 🤯
If you don’t mind spending the extra money, I can recommend the Steelseries Arctis Nova Pro Wireless. I went with these because they can do high quality audio over 2.4GHz wireless, which was a must for me in a wireless headset.
I’ve used it on Pop!_OS and Mint Debian Edition and had to do no setup, the system recognized it as a sound device out of the box. My only issue was in Pop!, where the microphone would output garbage unless I switched audio devices back and forth when I connected to a discord voice room. I’m not entirely sure that was an issue with the device or with discord on that distro, but on Mint I’ve yet to have issues. The software from Steelseries doesn’t have a Linux version, so maybe I’m missing out on some fine tuning, but for my purposes it works great.
I use it on Fedora, never got that issue. But you are right, it lacks some fine tunning, but overall it is a great headset for Linux.
My only criticism would be about the cushions, which broke apart quite early. Fortunately they are easily replaceable.
Interesting, my ear cushions are still in decent shape (I’ve only had them about a year now). I bought a replacement set early on just to have in storage, but I’ve yet to need them.
I remember when they were the “go-to” MB manufacturers. Why is every good thing from yesteryear getting eshitified so fast? It’s a sad world we’re living in.
I don’t think you’ll have any issues, none that you didn’t already anyway. If you use archinstall it installs the drivers for you. Not sure about freesync as I can’t really tell the difference, but there’s a setting and it seems to do something.
Not sure if xwayland flicker (including on some games) is a thing on gnome, but on kde you’ll need the nvidia 555 beta driver to get it mostly fixed. It’s on aur but you need the flag -Syud (on paru) since the dependencies can’t seem to be resolved automatically.
About the mount points, I can only think of backing up fstab and swapping the uuids.
Highly recommend kde, although don’t get your hopes too high with hdr. It’s still not finalized so most programs don’t support it. You can run games inside gamescope to make them see the hdr support but since gamesope doesn’t support multiple windows any game with a launcher makes it crash. And when hdr is enabled the color profile is set to the built in color profile of the monitor, which for my monitor makes all the colors extremely dull and boring in comparison to no color profile.
What’s the deal with the flicker? The screen flickers when playing a game? That’s definitely not an issue I’ve encountered with Pop and Gnome. I’ll definitely use the 555 driver. Thanks for that warning. That probably saved me a bunch of time.
Oh good idea about fstab. That’ll simplify the setup since I have like 7 hard drives.
Damn, that’s disappointing about HDR. I was pretty excited about getting it working. Hopefully they get it dialed in soon. I suppose I’ll still benefit being on Arch since I’ll be able to use the fix whenever it comes out rather than waiting for the next LTS version.
In some xwayland programs on Wayland with nvidia gpu it looks like the last couple frames alternating instead of being shown in order once. Steam completely glitches out on first launch until you resize the window (still on 555).
Not sure if the hdr color profile issue is fixable since windows 10 also does the same thing, but that might not be an issue for you either way.
Yes, using X-server. You can toggle it on just like with the Nvidia control panel in Windows. You said nevermind, but there’s the answer in case someone else comes along and sees this later wondering the same thing.
Edit: you said most things don’t have it to begin with. Do you mean that the flicker issue is only present on a few games?
Holy hell! The first time I installed Arch for my laptop it took me like 40 minutes, but I forgot to install a DE and had to go back to the live USB mount every, chroot in, and install Gnome. All in all it took about an hour. This time it took me literally the entire night and part of the afternoon too!
I installed grub and ran the command to install it on the EFI, but I forgot to make the config file. So I spent hours trying to figure out why the hell it wouldn’t boot into Arch. I ended up completely reinstalling Arch 3 times in case I had borked the install since I have another EFI partition, another OS on this drive, and 7 partitions total. When I finally figured out that I skipped the config file I wasn’t even mad. I was so freaking relieved to figure out what I had done wrong that I was happy.
Then I installed Plasma, but it needs a bunch of other packages that either aren’t in the man page, or I missed them since I was pretty tired by that point. Got that all installed finally and set up, restarted, and realized that I can’t even log into KDE with a root account! Haha. I had to go back to the live CD and install sudo, and set up the sudoers file.
Holy shit man, that was the hardest time I’ve had with an install in over a decade. I’ve been doing this a long time and it usually goes pretty smoothly, but I guess my brain was in my pocket or something today. But it’s done!
KDE Plasma seems pretty slick. I still need to install my Nvidia drivers, steam, and all that jazz, but it’s way past bedtime now. I’ll do it after work tomorrow.
Oh, I installed yay too and wow, what a time saver! On my laptop I’ve been manually making packages for stuff like Firefox and whatever the whole time I’ve used it. I don’t have a lot of software on that laptop since it’s old and mainly just an Internet portal, but I’m definitely going to be using yay for that from now on.
If you’re still reading, I’m so exited to have finally made the switch and have it done. None of my friends are into this kind of stuff and my wife has no idea about any of it, so I just had to tell someone, and you seemed kind of invested earlier. Thanks for listening! Lol.
I guess I felt like that would kind of eliminate one of the benefits of Arch, being able to manually select every package that gets installed. I totally should have though, because in my frustration I installed the kde-applications package, which includes like 50 packages, including a bunch of games and stuff, instead of kde-desktop. Now I need to go through and uninstall all the ones I don’t want. Oh well! Next time.
Hey, have you ever run into an issue where the Nvidia driver is installed, and listed as working, but the Nvidia control panel doesn’t have any options? The graphics information section is completely blank. I’ve done a bunch of troubleshooting, and I’m pretty sure that I’ve completed every single requirement. I even tried a different Nvidia driver in case that was the issue, but with that one it was really clear that it is the wrong driver since it threw a bunch of errors. I’m confident that I’m running the right driver, I have grub set up to load it early, I have all of the modules listed in the intramfs config, I ran Nvidia options config and all the other stuff, but I am still seeing blank options.
If you’re on Wayland, nvidia settings doesn’t support it. Although I just checked X too and nvidia settings doesn’t have an options tab there neither. Is there a separate nvidia control panel than the nvidia x server settings?
I don’t see a different UI app for Nvidia options, just X Server Settings. So, if I can’t use that, how do I control the more advanced features of my GFX card? Command line only?
I remember searching about setting a fan curve on Wayland and iirc the ‘solution’ I had found was running the thing on an x server on a different tty. Didn’t look into overclocking
I’m replying here at the top of the thread again because it’s getting pretty crowded down there. I got steam installed and it’s working. I ran Baldur’s Gate 3, which worked flawlessly on my Pop install with Gnome, but in KDE Plasma on Arch the screen is going black for about 10 seconds at a time, then the game shows for about 5 seconds, and it goes black again. Is that the flicker issue you were talking about? It’s a pretty bad issue. I’ve been unable to resolve it so far. I’m pretty burned out working on it for now, so I’m going to take a break. But I wanted to see if that describes the flicker you were talking about or if I’m experiencing something different.
Edit: I disabled screen tearing in the KDE options and it stopped. I also made some changes to my config files, so I probably should have tested without disabling screen tearing first, but at least it’s fixed! Sweet! I have a working Arch Linux gaming setup now.
That’s not the flicker I was talking about but I do remember the screen intermittently going black in games for like half a second when the 550 driver first came out. Had to downgrade the driver to get rid of it. Eventually upgraded again and it didn’t happen so I thought it was fixed. Maybe those two or three bugs are related
Ah okay. I think I did see the flicker too when I was playing the game. It happens when changing views, like going to a loading screen, or opening a menu. That’s at least tolerable for a game like Baldur’s Gate. You said if I just resize the window it will stop?
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