You will need to shop for a car inverter. Find one that is at least 1,500 watts, and it will help you power your refrigerator for up to five hours—usually without damaging your car battery. Considering how much food we keep in our refrigerators, a $200 car inverter is a bargain!
Nah, it’s definitely easier during a tornado to go outside, jack up my car, remove the wheel, remove the wheel liner, and then pull the battery from inside the bumper because that’s a really convenient place to keep a car battery. Then I just have to lug the battery inside, hook it up, and keep 2 small children and 3 dogs away from it. Much easier than a generator.
No, it’s saying that far-right people claim they aren’t right or left, and just care about the truth, as a means to distance their image from their actual views.
Some people genuinely aren’t left or right, those people are generally Social Democrats, ie Capitalism with strong social safety nets and some level of government ownership of some key industries. However, this isn’t perceived as being a centrist view due to the Overton Window, ie in America, Liberalism, a right wing ideology, is the status quo, with a liberal party and a fascist party.
One running on "Volts" and another running on "Watts" is like refusing to compare two cars because one car runs on Wheels and the other running on Motors
Well, you just have to convert wheels to motors. A car runs on wheels, which is 1/4 motors. A boat runs on motors, and has one, meaning it has 4 wheels and is probably street legal!
Watt and volt are two different measures for electricity. Also your fridge will not work when hooked up to a car battery for many other technical reasons, including differ t voltages, and current types (AC/CD, not the band)
That vehicle isn’t using a traditional 12v car battery for that. Also the point t is you can’t connect a car battery to a fridge and expect it to work.
You stated that you cant connect a car battery to a fridge. You said nothing in your comment about 12v. I can connect my car battery to my fridge no problem.
You can but it won’t keep your fridge cold. (Unless you use an inverter and you would need to check the amps needed by the fridge when the pump is on and see if your battery and inverter can provide that.)
Another way to think of it is this: Volts are like water pressure (potential energy) Amperage is like the flow rate of water Ohms (resistance) is like how hard it is to push water from high pressure to low pressure Watts are like the volume of water (a unit of energy)
A big hose has low resistance, water can move freely A coffee straw has large resistance, it’s hard to pull and push water thru it
A river has very low water pressure, and the speed of the water can vary, so volume of water moving can be huge so the flow rate of water can be huge as well. A pressure washer might have very high pressure, but use as much water as a kitchen faucet. Certain applications need high pressure, some need low pressure. A car battery is like a river, low pressure (typically 12volts) but move a lot of amps (cold cranking amps of up to 500-600 ish usually), and a wall outlet by comparison is like a pressure washer with 120v, 15A (in the US). A fridge won’t play nice on 12v, it needs 120v. It might need 400 watts which a car battery can do but it cares about how it can get that by requiring higher potential.
A watt, W=VA, can be thought of as asking how much water is there? 1 minute under a sink verse 1 minute in front a fire hose has two very very different amounts of water.
A watt hour, which most people are familiar with in the US for billing on their utilities, is like asking how many cups of water an hour. A light bulb needs a fraction of a kilowatt hour, a drier needs multiple kilowatt hours, but might only run for 30 minutes.
This idea gets a little tricky and falls apart at its edges but as a general idea should hold up for most peoples understanding of electrical stuff unless you work with it daily like an electrical engineer, electrician or something similar. For sanity sake I’m not going to try to apply this to AC verse DC, I don’t have a good analogy for that
Obligatory mobile formatting heads-up and what not and I’m not caffeinated so meh
For the AC/DC part, I usually try to tell people it’s like a water wheel that’s been inserted into the hose of water. DC is it spinning one way constantly, while AC is it spinning back and forth. The wheel is turning pretty much the whole time (again, we can try to not be super specific with the way we do phases with AC), and thus you can use it to do stuff on AC or DC.
Clever, it just breaks down again with my analog of water volume lol. Definitely not saying it’s wrong, I just like to leave it off so there are less questions haha
Like I said it falls apart on its edges but for most people it’s probably a better understanding of it than they will ever have or need, but most people scrolling thru Lemmy probably don’t need to be understanding electrical concepts like electrons not actually flowing, charge, etc. I’m a controls engineer and while I am aware of the concepts and such, I am not designing electronics so at the end of the day I barely have a use for half of the concepts myself. Sure I could get down to the half semester class of quantum where things get weird, but that won’t easily tell people to not to try to plug their fridge into a car battery
Almost every sentence. But funny self review and other things aside, main problems:
“Watts… Contains.” Is a fundamental confusion on what a watt is. It’s like asking how much fast there is in a box.
The answer has a good basic idea, but also a total comprehension failure not just pulling the numbers out of thin air, but badly describing an equation with watts on one side and watt hours on another. The answer is both ignoring realities and getting the hypotheticals wrong. Sounds expertish but is both wrong and useless.
When they could have just said “yes, you could use a suitable inverter with a suitable battery and a fridge in some cases, but the math and actual connections would be more complicated than that explanation” or something like that.
A little more technical, I don’t think your average starting battery is 100ah capacity, and most don’t rate themselves in amp hours either.
I bought a deep cycle for my little sailboat at the local auto store and it’s around 70-80ah
You would need an inverter to convert the batteries DC (direct current) into AC (alternating current). This will “cost” some power (watts) to convert that voltage. Your refrigerator runs on AC battery outputs DC.
That said, it is quite common to run refrigerators on larger boats and RVs off batteries and it would certainly be possible to run your house fridge off a single car battery for a short while if you’ve got an inverter large enough to run it.
What your not gonna do is just run out to the car, grab your battery and hook it directly to your fridge.
Our fridge uses between 130-180 watts when running and about 2.9Kw or 2900 watts in 24 hours. Your battery most likely has under 1000 total watt hours til empty, and car batteries are generally not used past 50% capacity (lead acid starting battery). So figure 500 watt hours max (for easy math). So… 4h run time maybe.
In your last paragraph, most of the places you write watts you mean watt hours. Good reminder that Wh is a bad unit, since it’s too easy to confuse with watts.
While it’s true that it won’t be at max capacity, I will say that batteries these days will rate themselves in amp hours. For instance usually an 800 CCA AGM battery lists itself online as 7.5 AH.
The conversion process involves using the formula CCA = 7.2 x Ah to convert from Ah to CCA, and Ah = CCA / 7.2 to convert from CCA to Ah.
I specifically looked at the available specs at the local auto parts stores and couldn’t find Ah details. This was about 2y ago, so maybe this value is becoming more commonplace. I know in the RV/Sailing works Ah is used pretty exclusively. My deep cycle AGM only lists CCA and reserve capacity
I never got the pipe analogy. Since liquid water can’t be compressed, wouldn’t the amperes be directly proportional to the volts and to the size of the pipe, assuming there are no air bubbles? Also, supposedly resistance only reduces current, but when I think of hair in a pipe, the pressure after the obstruction would also be lower (because pressure is directly proportional to the amount of water that flows)
He expressed it wrong. Amperes is diameter of the pipe, how much volume (or charge) can be transferred per unit of length at a given pressure; Watt is the amount of water flowing out at the end, which depends both on pressure and diameter.
Watt is the amount of water flowing out at the end
Shouldn’t it instead be the sum of the kinetic energy of all water molecules that come out the other end per unit of time (ie. total amount of energy you use move your volume of water with a certain pressure in a second)?
Common misconception - it can, just not very much, so the volume change is tiny, and in practice, there’s usually something else in the system that is changing volume by a larger amount- like air bubbles, or if there’s anything elastic in the plumbing, it will stretch - but regardless, water absolutely can be under pressure.
resistance only reduces current, but when I think of hair in a pipe, the pressure after the obstruction would also be lower
You are correct, in electronics, resistance drops voltage (assuming the load is in series with the resistance). In fact, a cheap quick and dirty digital to analog converter uses a bunch of resistors to supply different voltages…
It would be. By ohm’s law, I=V/R and R=V/I, so if V is fixed as V=1, then I=1/R, R=1/I, so it’s is effectively the same thing, just measured in reverse.
I mean, the running on watts vs volts part was nonsense.
But, did get quite close with the power calculation. Although here in the UK the average car battery seems to be around 60ah. I did see some very expensive large 105ah batteries. But they were definitely the outlier. So if you had a 100ah battery then it would be 1.2kwh with 100% efficiency.
Also, it doesn't mention that you'd need an inverter to make the fridge run from a battery. These also have inefficiencies which would reduce the runtime on the battery.
From the owners manual: “There is a 115 Volt, 150 Watt inverter outlet located on the back of the center console to convert DC current to AC current. This outlet can power cellular phones, electronics and other low power devices requiring power up to 150 Watts.”
I don’t know if I’d plug in a fridge to that. I was wondering because my father in law’s truck has a similar outlet and I know he’s blown a fuse using it to power power tools.
My father in law drives a 2015 F150. That outlet on the center console is 120 Volt outlet supplies 400watts. But a fridge can be anything from 300 to almost 800. I’m not saying it’s impossible. And with newer trucks (especially the lightning and the F150 hybrid), I would believe it more readily. Ford is quick to market this in new trucks but I wouldn’t count on it with older trucks. I’m just pointing out that real work experience says your mileage may vary. Especially in places like Texas or Arizona where your battery is going through extreme heat cycles due to the weather from like February to November.
I wanted to say “look at the label but it should be fine” but then I did a quick google double-check and depending on whether you get US or EU results you get quite different answers: US 350 to 780W, EU 100 to 300W. Refrigerators have quite lower numbers but we wanted a fridge so let’s look at small refrigerators with proper fridge compartment (four stars, -18C), like… a Beko TSE1284N b100, 240 bucks not fancy not shoddy (Beko in a nutshell, honestly). Damn, why are they only listing kWh/24h and kWh/a. Whelp. No pictures of rating plates anywhere. Oh. According to Amazon “50W”, according to another trader 90W connected load, which makes sense if we understand those 50W as consumption load (or whatever those things are called in English).
So, yeah, look at the label and you should be fine. Don’t get that fridge though it’s 220V.
I measured my fridge. You could, in theory. Problem is that the motor in the fridge (and in power tools) is an “induction load”, meaning it draws a lot more power in a split second when starting. Inverters have to be built with that in mind, or just stronger (killowats range).
Yeah. A meme that is just straight up wrong. That never happens.
I mean, if it was named after Julius Caesar, why? We should eat it with knives or something. I’m sure they had Dijon and Worcestershire sauce in 50 BCE. Wonder what mental retcon people have made up to claim the association.
One of my annoyances about “switching to linux” discussion is that people seem to think of linux as a “free windows”. Everything has to work like in windows, everything has to be in the same position as in windows, etc. They can’t accept that linux is a different OS, with its own ways of doing things, but somehow macOS get a pass.
Secondly, you switched over the least tech savvy people that relied solely on an existing workflow to get anything done. You destroyed their workflow, denied them the option to use older documents as a reference due to how badly messed up MS documents often get when opened with Libre and you gave them an alternative that’s just different enough that nothing works as expected, but still similar enough to just be seen as a different office version.
OP was claiming to be working on a static HTML-serving search engine. They suggested that because it’s just HTML and CSS, and that interested parties can use Inspect Element to read the network requests, that it constituted “open source”.
Commenters then got on his case about not open sourcing the server backend. OP defended that choice saying they didn’t want a competitor taking their code and building a company off of it that would “drive [them] out of business”. Uh-huh. So, proprietary software, then. Bye.
Technically they are correct. None of the Open Source licenses really regulate what happens on the server. When it’s not you running the binary, all the licenses are basically useless. AGPL is one of the few that address this a little bit, but even there you only get the source code itself, when the value in most online services is in the databases and backend stuff that you still don’t get to access with AGPL.
The Free Software world hasn’t figured out what to do with services running on computers you don’t own. GDPR is so far the only thing does something about the server side, but that’s EU law, not a license you can slap onto your software.
maybe they’re really into creepy sexist jokes and defending paedophiles and they figured RMS would overlook the licensing to support some fellow travelers…
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