JIS is more common on Japanese machines, ie Japanese cars and motorcycles. When I was a bike mechanic you used JIS for Shimano derailleur adjustment screws. Even tho a Phillips “fit” it would destroy the screw.
I actually can’t tell them apart from sight truth be told, but I’m also not wrenching anymore (not to mention the cycling industry largely moved on to hex and torx)
Probably. I find a JIS driver is, for the most part, slightly better for a lot of what I do.
The main thing I’ve found is you dont want too much of a point on the bit end. Too pointy and the driver will just wobble on the point and strip everything out.
I got a dinky electronics repair kit that included a wide range of those bits and god DAMN. It feels like they outperform phillips heads on phillips fasteners.
Socket (hexagon) and Robinson (square) are hyper common standards. You use Robinson for wood working due to the shape offering more resistance for high speed driving, and you use a socket with an allen key in order to get precise high torque hand tightening. IMO Phillips and Slot are the worst common standards due to stripping and sliding.
I’m not Canadian myself, but I did know that. Other than some cheaper ones being a bit weak from the large-ish chunk required for the square-drive, they’re really great. Much more pleasant to use than Phillips.
if you need to unscrew a torx screw and you don’t have any torx bits, you can try using a flathead. it won’t work and you’ll probably get hurt doing it, but you can try it.
slotted screws are all fun and games, but if they’re ruined…you will never get them out. I coursed these screws. Eventually they got the dremel treatement.
It’s the “grandpa has been using slotted all his life so it can’t be bad” reasoning. I can’t think of a single use case I’d want slotted or even philips, if I’ve got a choice. Torx or bust!
If you’re having trouble with Torx, buy better screws and bits. There are so many terrible screws around. The difference between a deep well fitting head and the cheap trash is massive.
Most of us are dealing with screws that someone else installed, though. Can’t really control the fact that the manufacturer decided to save .5 cents per units by using cheapass screws that strip if you look at them.
If you’re having trouble with Torx, buy better screws and bits.
Last year I needed to do some hardwood construction outdoors. On the advise of a carpenter I ordered some high quality stainless steel Torx screws online. They don’t sell these in the consumer-oriented DIY store. They were awesome, much harder than the cheap screws, that would easily bend when driven into hardwood, much sharper as well and if you buy a box of 100 or more it comes with a bit which fits perfectly. So much easier to use than the overpriced crap from the DIY store.
A screwdriver - not a drill or impact driver. For those I always use the correct bit. But the $1 Phillips driver in my desk isn’t gonna over-torque a posidrive.
Temper proof torx makes me lol, because almost every bit set I own includes them.
If you break it off you will most likely leave some behind, which will significantly reduce the mating area because you cannot insert the bit fully and may lead to stripping the screw.
Fair. It all depends on where it breaks off and how tight the screw is. In electronics the screws arent in very tight, and breaking it off often breaks it off all the way down to the base.
Whatever happens, tamper proof is a huge fail and a good joke
the only slightly justifiable use of slotted is something like the face plate on a light switch or power outlet, where it doesn’t have to be particularly tight and it’s nice you can remove it in a pinch with a fingernail or dime.
… but really if someone came and replaced all of mine with torx I can’t say id complain, so its not like they’re good in that use case… just less awful
Literally the only people who I hear say negative things about Torx / star bits are people who don’t own a good Torx driver set. They don’t strip easily (using the correct size) and they don’t slip.
Phillips and pozi are actually designed to cam out (look it up on wikipedia). Started using torx a few years ago and I will never go back to pz again, even if it’s on the clock and someone else is paying for materials.
Flat head still has it’s place IMO, for example on machinery that gets used out in the field where you might need to improvise a driver out of a knife or coin or something.
This man clearly works in the field. Torx is the head to rule them all, except below T15 then it’s a pain, and you break more bits than you put in screws.
True. Best to save T15 and below for cleaning the flesh out from under your fingernails after you’ve finished removing all the pz screws the last guy put in.
For real, an when de screw is cheap. The screwdriver just eats all the metal. More than one time I got left with a stuck screw because the craving was completely destroyed.
Why though? Do they think a pervert will go and unscrew doors? I’d argue the occupant would notice before it’s all unscrewed. Also, kicking it down might just be faster.
Cool concept though, but as person who loves repairing their stuff, I must say f it.
To elaborate: it’s in 3d, the s curve is a ramp. The regular screwdriver slots in when turned clockwise, but has no purchase the other way round. It slips out because the ramp lifts the screwdriver out of the screw.
Interestingly, it was an accidental feature. The original patent application makes no mention of it, but 9 years later they added language about it camming out to the second patent application. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cam_out