I’ve really enjoyed the videos of James Veitch on annoying scanners. Especially this one: www.youtube.com/watch?v=3MHDDSekvcE. The scammer wants him to contact this “bank” and open an account. He than makes up, that he read somewhere that you get a free toaster with any new account. He than goes on and on about the free toaster until the scanner asks him to stop emailing him.
I can pick out Italy, France, Portugal, Spain. Is it that country with ancient world history dating all the way back to classical antiquity? -you know, uh Atlantis?
Great that you included your threat model, but you should have specified the type of services that you host/provide.
One thing i would look into is disabling any port that is not necessary (like 80 and 443) and disable ssh on the wider network.
Host a wireguard endpoint in the internal network that acts like a bastion and allows you to ssh-jump to any other host and VM on the network.
Wireguard is more secure than ssh, assuming sound crypto and hygiene for both, because you can’t probe a host from the outside and know if wireguard is running or not
Hello from PieFed!
Kbin/Mbin is actually very versatile, it has a threads side (much like Lemmy), but it also has the Microblog side which is like Mastodon in form and function. One or other of these usually works for most of the fediverse.
I love the ps5 controller but I’m now kind of scared about stick drift as one of mine had to be replaced because of it.
The second one doesn’t show any sign of this happening, but I’m not so confident anymore although Sony had never disappointed me before regarding reliability.
If you can get a controller with Hall effect sensor that would be top. Else just get an Xbox series controller and call it a day. If you’re generally ruff with your joystick, you might look into cheaper controller, as all with no hall joysticks might start to drift earlier.
I’m very happy with my xbox series controller but others have less luck. But my mainboard has Bluetooth, so I can easily connect the controller. Some say you need the adapter, but I don’t, probably because it uses the newest Bluetooth version protocols.
The best controller was my original Xbox cable controller. It lasted me 15 years or more.
It’s a driver issue while they support the same connectivity tech a trigger could be read as an analogue sticks veriticle axis, without driver support the device can’t be read well by the system.
Reccomendation 8bitdo ultimate Works with Linux and Windows you can switch to console it’s mainly setup for switch, Hall effect sticks so no drift.
Consoles have used different wireless tech/protocols but mostly use bluetooth now. Bluetooth devices should be able to work on pc but may require extra hassle like non standard protocol and no official drivers if they weren’t intended to be used that way. For the ones that do work the main takeaway is no additional dongle if your system already has bluetooth, but there may be addititonal input latency.
2.4ghz is kinda silly naming because bluetooth and wifi are both 2.4ghz, though wifi also has 5ghz, but it usually refers to presumably proprietary protocol over 2.4ghz and uses a usb dongle. It will generally be faster/lower latency but that isn’t even guaranteed as the 2.4ghz mentioned never refers to any standard.
The latency difference will only be noticible to cats or birds or something unless the controller tries to pass the headset audio to the pc. Bluetooth audio has a noticable delay compared to most ‘2.4ghz’ options, particularly noticable in rhythm games, games with inputs timed to audio cues, voice chats where everyone else has low latency audio and fast internet, and probably other stuff I’m not personally into.
Deciding your controller comes down to a lot of things. If the means exist in your area, try as many as you can to determine your most comfortable size, shape and layout. Other than that you absolutely must do yourself a favour and get a controller with hall effect sticks. The console companies all love stick drift. Don’t be fooled by Sony’s replacable stick controller either, the sticks are always out of stock and if you can solder you can get a regular controller and swap to hall effect yourself, both sticks, when drift starts for like $5 CAD vs $25 for 1 that will eventually die in the same way.
But probably just don’t give m$ sony or nint your money since they all get drift and I have replaced the battery and charge circuit on 8 separate ps4 controllers and drifting sticks on so so many of every big3 console controller. 8bitdo has a few stick and trigger hall effect controllers which I can mostly recommend, I have the hall stick only version of the ultimate controller and several of their older regular stick controllers. They are noted for their very close replica feel of snes dpad and face buttons but the configuration and firmware update software was windows only last I checked. I also quite like retro fighters controllers but all of their hall effect options are on closed preorder pending fulfillment. There are other highly regarded non big3 brands that I haven’t tried that seem to have pretty solid feature set and build quality too.
The used market is also an option. Arrange for testing though, and pass or haggle on drift, charging problems, filth, etc. Ifixit teardown guides for swapping parts or just cleaning the shells and button caps in soapy water with a soft rag. Watch out for devices originally sold with ‘soft touch’/‘smooth grip’/etc finish as all of them have degraded and become sticky even unopened in box by now.
kbin.life
Oldest