There have been multiple accounts created with the sole purpose of posting advertisement posts or replies containing unsolicited advertising.

Accounts which solely post advertisements, or persistently post them may be terminated.

NENathaniel ,
@NENathaniel@lemmy.ca avatar

GPU’s, usually the budget ones have worse performance per dollar ratios

collapse_already ,

I am going to replace my 980ti this year. Most expensive GPU I ever bought, but I have been using it for almost 8 years. I am not optimistic about my next one lasting that long. Waiting for the Supers to release so I can get some benchmarks and see what prices do.

NENathaniel ,
@NENathaniel@lemmy.ca avatar

I bet a lot of users will get 8 years out of a 3080 if they bought it at launch. 4080 value went uh, a bit downhill

onion ,

Take a look at the rx cards as well

collapse_already ,

I am actually hoping the 4080s causes a $200 price drop on the 7900XTX. I think the 24 GB of memory makes it the best long-term prospect.

some_guy ,

Pretty much all kitchenware is worth getting the good stuff if you can afford it, even if cheap versions will work.

Probably safety-related items.

aDogCalledSpot ,

I feel like there are too many exceptions to this rule. Maybe dont get the cheapest but you dont need to spend a lot to have a very good:

  • Cast iron pan
  • Carbon steel pan
  • Enameled cast iron pot (seriously, look it up, I see people saying how much they love their Le Creuset all the time but I got one from KitchenAid of all brands at 50 euros in my local supermarket)
  • Baking tray
  • Cooling rack
  • Baking bowls
  • Spatula of any kind
  • Peeler
  • Electric mixer
  • Kitchen scale

I could go on but I believe Ive made my point.

onion ,
  • Chefs Knife
verity_kindle ,

Toilet paper.

W3dd1e ,

Now that more devices are on USB-C, but the standard isn’t labeled well, it’s worth getting a good cable/charge block that will regulate power appropriately.

Adam Savage had the team that does CT Scans of various products and you really can start justify why some good charging cables cost $100.

I probably wouldn’t spend that kind of money but I’m willing to spend more on one really good one that I can use in many devices.

BenadrylChunderHatch ,

This is no joke. I had a cheap usb-c cable catch fire when plugged into my laptop.

Gestrid ,

Adam Savage had the team that does CT Scans of various products

Link?

W3dd1e ,

Sorry! Just saw this.

Here you go! It’s a really good watch. youtu.be/AD5aAd8Oy84?si=1-XoqmDITOpMVlkt

jmer ,

For a little more than $100, you can get a Chromebook, which will come with a USB-C PD cable. And now you also have a Chromebook.

amelia ,

I don’t know if that’s just a German thing, but: Swiffer.

The knockoffs are all crap.

TheAnonymouseJoker ,
@TheAnonymouseJoker@lemmy.ml avatar
  • highly reputed Oxymeter in medical establishment (do not buy inaccurate smartwatches, Apple is 20x ripoff and still subpar)
  • Victorinox for Swiss army knife
  • Victorinox or Leatherman for multitool
  • reputed branded batteries (Maxell, Duracell, Sanyo, Sony, Eneloop et al)
  • reputed battery/device chargers
  • PSU/SMPS and UPS for computer (APC, Emerson, Schneider and other brands)
  • reputed brand watches (Casio, Citizen, Seiko have affordable BIFL options)
  • ThinkPad for laptop (user repairability, third party parts, open schematics)
  • Levis for jeans, they are almost BIFL
  • a good weighing machine for kitchen/home use
  • a good mixer grinder WITH safety lock (atleast 750W)
  • quality stationery pen, mechanical pencil, leads, eraser and other items (Uni, Pentel, Sakura, Staedtler et al, refer to JetPens website)
Tja ,

For batteries eneloop are good, but so are Ikea batteries. The ones Made in Japan are basically eneloop clones for a nice discount.

miss_brainfart ,
@miss_brainfart@lemmy.ml avatar

I’ve had the same Casio watch for 16 years now, just had to change the battery once. Sturdy and precise.

Well, almost. A while ago it set itself to be three hours off, and I can’t figure out how to get it back to my timezone. I follow the steps in the manual to have it re-set itself, but it’s still three hours off.

I don’t understand where it gets that time from

TheAnonymouseJoker ,
@TheAnonymouseJoker@lemmy.ml avatar

Get it inspected by a watchmaker. Easiest way and should not cost much. The gears might have some issue.

miss_brainfart ,
@miss_brainfart@lemmy.ml avatar

Yeah, I probably should

konalt ,
@konalt@lemmy.world avatar

Custom building a computer? Don’t cheap out on the power supply or you might end up with a smoke machine

sockenklaus ,
@sockenklaus@sh.itjust.works avatar

For me it’s toner for printers: I have a Brother laser printer at home that is not heavily used but at least once a week. I thought I’d save some money when I bought some cheap ass toner from Amazon that cost about half of what a original Brother toner costs and promised something like double the capacity.

Oh boy… I had the worst mildly infuriating two years of printing you could imagine: always disappointed of the printing quality but not THAT disappointed to replace this shitty but still at 2/3 capacity toner. I paid money for that toner so I’d squeeze every last page of shitty quality prints out of this fucking toner!

Last week I gave up and bought an original Brother toner and it’s a bliss. 🙄

Overzeetop ,

3D printers. Yes, there are lot of $100-$300 models out there. Unless you want 3D printer repair and maintenance to become your new hobby, just go buy a Prusa (or other well supported, full featured printer).

lemann ,

Yes, this 100%!

I’m new to 3D printing myself, mainly got into it to make my ideas become reality - at the moment I don’t want to get too caught up in the weeds modding and customizing my printer, I just want it to work, not turn it into a project

Extremely happy that I went for a decent used printer though (Delta style Flsun), instead of buying a new cheap one and being disappointed. My next printer will probably be a compact CoreXY, Voron 0.2 is what I have my eyes on but those kits carry a price tag and take days to assemble 😳

If I was buying a printer for my partner or friends though, 100% Prusa. The extra is worth it IMO for the highly refined UX, preconfigured slicer+filament combos, actual support, and most importantly their ongoing contributions to open source.

PM_Your_Nudes_Please ,

Anything that separates you from the ground for long periods of time. Shoes, tires, mattresses, computer chairs, couches, etc…

win95 ,
@win95@lemmy.zip avatar

A mattress

jmp242 ,

This is so hard to specify because it really depends on a lot of factors. It’s usually more like there are specific models that are really worth getting, or pricepoints or brands depending.

Like, I don’t think cordless drill/drivers that are sub $100 are really worth it if you’re ever going to do more than screw into pre drilled or pre made screw holes. But a Bosch (blue), Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita, etc are all pretty good. They’re just usually over $100.

You’re right about blenders - I never had a use for Oster blenders, but a BlendTec in 2008 changed my life (well, not really, but did do things that I have uses for at least).

Ohh, pressure cookers - I don’t want to risk it exploding, so I avoid the $70 and under crowd. Actually, I went Kunh Rikon which is pretty expensive, but also really hard to screw up (like 6 layers of safeties), and easy to get refurb parts for seals and such.

Lots of safety equipment - there’s all sorts of … “fake” in that it won’t actually work stuff at super cheap prices. I’m thinking like laser safety glasses or chain saw safety pants. Mid range is def worth it there.

Dishwashers IMHO. I’ve used cheap ones before and they clean poorly and are extremely loud. Depending on your house, you won’t want to be in the next room to them. OTOH, Bosch higher end ones, like the 800 series, cost a pretty penny, but are darn near silent and actually live up to the washing claims - shit just comes clean in them. I’m usually surprised in a good way. Oh, and that third tray for silverware - I’m never going back to the basket (though lots of brands have that now).

Stand Mixers - especially if you want to get into bread or attachments for grinding things. I strongly recommend the Bosch Universal Plus. That thing is like a power tool for the kitchen. We’ve abused it for over 10 years and it’s not slowing down. I know many people online who have had them for 30 years.

Vacuums - look into Sebo.

BlueFairyPainter ,

Definitely dishwashers. When we were poor students moving out of the dorms into our first real apartment, we cheaped out on as much as we could but shelled out more than 1k on a proper good Miele one. Got one with less features but better energy and water efficiency and it just does its job and does it well. Every time I am at someone else’s place and they have to prewash their dishes I feel more validated in this choice.

beercupcake ,
@beercupcake@sopuli.xyz avatar

Everything that you use for prolonged amounts of time every day. For me it was ergonomic chair, keyboard, pillow. Expensive is a word, but I would rather think higher quality when choosing replacement for stuff I use.
Another category of things is hobby equipment, for me it’s instruments. When I buy one it’s to last. So when I was buying digital piano I went for one over my budget because I don’t plan to get rid of it for next 5-10 years still, and it was 5years ago. Overall stuff that you don’t usually think of buying frequently.
Last category I think of i go for higher quality stuff then generic ones are travel stuff. Last thing you want during your trip, short or long, distant or near, is to deal with faulty bag, broken wheel, or such.

ivanafterall ,
@ivanafterall@kbin.social avatar

I'd take issue with the "only," but setting that aside: musical instruments. Guitars, for example. You can find perfectly serviceable guitars for cheap and they'll be playable with a decent setup, and you can obviously find deals. But in general, if you try your $100-$200 Fender acoustic guitar or mandolin and then go to a guitar shop and try out a high-end Martin, for example, there's a world of difference.

kurcatovium ,

I’m saying this mainly from bass perspective. But generally you have to get lucky in the cheap department to get decently good instrument. When you shift to like $500 range it gets better and for “normal use” $1000 is good enough (normal = not professional, just hobby player). Most things above $1500 are usually just waste of money to show off.

(All calculations including pre-owned prices.)

HamsterRage ,

That used to be really true when I was a kid in the 79’s, but not so much today. Back then, a quality guitar cost way more than the cheap stuff and the cheap stuff was rubbish.

Nowadays, with CNC machines everywhere, there are lots of modestly priced guitars that are very playable. The junk that we used to have to settle with back in the day only exists in the realm of “toy” instruments that almost aren’t intended to be played.

Seriously, $300 can get you a very playable instrument, especially in electric guitars.

croobat ,
@croobat@lemmy.world avatar

Helmets

  • All
  • Subscribed
  • Moderated
  • Favorites
  • •
  • [email protected]
  • random
  • lifeLocal
  • goranko
  • All magazines
    •