Hall effect sensors may be slightly temperature sensitive and if that is the case, that information would be in the sensors datasheet. (This wouldn’t be an issue on a hall effect counter where the sensor would be connected to a Schmitt trigger and the signal is either on or off.)
For a precision application like yours, there could be a few problems stacking up from a possible software issue combined with temperature drift.
If there are software issues, it could be as simple as a min/max issue with the buffer that stores the stick position. (It’s fairly easy to get rounding errors that stack up after a while.)
Obviously, I am spitballing some theories to why your calibration gets corrupted, so take them with a grain of salt. My limited experience with hall effect sensors has been that they are hyper-sensitve and I have usually had to code around any kind of drift or sporadic readings. Hell, anything that has a magnetic field (just about everything) can upset the readings on those things.
Gots any datasheets or specific part numbers for the hall effect sensors you are using? (I believe you listed some module types, but actual part numbers could change from module to module.)
There is very little information on the Hall Effect sensors on these modules!
www.youtube.com/ is one good (excellent!) source on installing these modules (problems and correct ways on installing them).
I forgot to say the exact modules in my post. They are the Ubituitous Ginfull sensors. These ones have L-8L (yellow) or R-8L (black) on the PCB, which is red and black text on it. Early Ginfull modules have problems with jitter (a non-issue, really), which was fixed in later batches but at the same time introducing an even worse problem, huge lag (presumably because of the filtering they’ve used to counteract the jitter). But these [LR]-8L’s should be better in terms of lag again.
The chips itself have markings “93L35”, they are 6-bin chips and tiny. I could not find their datasheets.
The well-known problem with these Hall Effect modules is that they only allow adjusting centering. So they will “work” in practically any controller out there, but more often than not there will be huge lopsided deadzone(s) caused by the H/W in combination with the previous calibration data. The SC is not that bad since it has some intelligence (I’ve deduced by test) but this can bring it’s own problems.
I’m not aware of any of the problems you’ve mentioned (but haven’t personally used DIY Hall Effect sensors in any controllers before).
There are calibration boards out there, which add a calibration mode between the controller and the module to also get the full range of movement in use. But Steam Controller has no room for those (the shell already has indentations for soldering spots and a mechanism for the back button, so this is feasible only if one is willing to sacrifice a back button or mod around it). Asides from centering and calibration (which needs to be manual!) there is no large issues AFAIK. They are widely installed in modern console controllers. PS4 and PS5 contorllers can even be calibrated (by undocumented USB commands), so they don’t need the boards.
Thanks for the additional info as it gave me a little more clarity on what kind of undertaking this is. I know electronics, but I really didn’t know the specifics of controllers. It didn’t take me long to get caught up, TBH.
That sucks. Before I was finished reading your full comment, I was already thinking of a way to intercept the signal for calibration. It seems that is already quite common and not easily possible for you.
My next thought was to 3D scan and print out a modified shell with a bit more room for electronics. Based on your description, that sounds tricky as well.
Whelp! I am effectively useless here and was hoping I could’ve helped a little. Doing extensive modifications to things is something I really enjoy, too.
It would set a precedent for valve just pulling the plug on a game/marketplace. If all your digital collectibles in a game, some “worth” thousands of dollars can’t be accessed/used, everyone would start fire sales on their other inventories.
best way I’ve seen is to set your game to Windowed mode, and then in game set the resolution of the game to run at the client’s. Not super if you frequently move around, but if you always play one game from one client, at least it’s always a “per game” setting.
If you want a real challenge and want to have it a very specific way… a very fun nerd project is setting up VMs with GPUs that can run Steam, and those can always have a specific resolution. I did that for a while, it was a ton of fun, and a ton of wasted time because I just wanted to do it
actually I should have mentioned this (adding to OP as well): most of the time I’m not playing game, just using laptop as a way to access PC / Deck (in desktop mode)
I bought this game, installed it, then the next day the announced this bullshit. Refunded without even loading it up. Added Sony to my do not buy from list. Hard pass.
Where are you posted? In my current run, I started as the count of Gotland, and then invaded Frisia. A few generations later, and all of the British Isles are viking, as is Scandinavia, Germany and France.
Last I played, my dynasty had 10 Kingdoms under its belt, ruled by various cousins and uncles of the main branch.
The new Legend mechanic is pretty hilarious with the Asatru horde. I’d conquered all of Catholicism by my second ruler because you can spam out the generic Defender of the Holy Site legend, spread it fast as fuck because of course they gave the Norse more bonuses, and basically buy a Kingdom Holy War CB every couple of years while also mass converting territory.
Then the second ruler died and I’m still on Confederate Partition so now there are five Norse Empires in control of Western Europe. I’d considered going full Blood Empire and trying to eradicate all dynasties but mine but I’m not sure that’s even possible anymore.
I’ve been playing Norse for a while. Just switched back to the Ireland campaign. I’m pretty new to the game and still learning how to effectively retain control after succession.
I started on xbox, which strips out a lot of granularity and only picked up the full version on a kbd/mouse device about a month ago. Reading game tips made me aware of mechanics that xbox lacked. I haven’t lasted more than several generations because I still learn from mistakes and start over. I’m getting there. Great game.
Love the game, been playing Ck2 and 3 for about a decade now.
A big part is making sure your lands are not split up too much each generation. Usually this means conquering or revoking from a vassal a new duchy per son, so the core remains intact on sucession. Like real life, Tyranny is just a number if you have the army to back it up.
Another big part is military strength. Betroth your newborns to people with big armies. Keep in mind the product of said unions will inherit claims to your land. Also, Knights and Men at Arms are wayyyy stronger than levies. If you’re playing Norse, they cost prestige, not gold, so you can maintain as many as your monthly prestige income allows, and battle, feast, and raid to boost your prestige over time to afford more.
Raiding is a HUGE boon for the Norse. Best places are counties in Ireland early, and then Brittany, Spain, and Cornwall as you become more powerful. Just be sure you scout the place out and make sure the ruler doesn’t have better troops than you, or you’ll go home with nothing!
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