I'm with you. I don't like the default Lemmy UI at all, but it's the most feature-complete as far as I can tell. I was a longtime Apollo user, so while Voyager feels similar at first glance it's mostly skin-deep. Kbin really does a great job with the look and feel, but there are a lot of frustrating bugs. I believe the dev has Been Going Through Some Shit (per his posts in kbinMeta) and I do not begrudge him taking care of personal life before a side project that blew up over the summer. So the result is that I mostly browse with kbin and switch to Lemmy if I need to do more than a text reply.