When I was in Venice I only tried a Diavolo at a local restaurant. It certainly could be my American expectations but nothing amazed me about it; definitely feel like a bit more could be done to mesh the ingredients. Or, maybe my American brain just craved sweeter, cheesier stuff.
Then again, I went to Germany and the bread there was fantastic compared to America, so unless they boarded the sugar train it feels like there must be something that can be done right with good ingredients.